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V

Event Support Group
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V last won the day on November 23

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  • County
    Powys
  • Location
    Wales
  • Jeep 1
    XJ 4.0L 2001
  • Jeep 2
    XJ 4.0L 1993

Jeep Model

  • Jeep Derivative
    Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 1984 - 2001

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  1. V

    My JKU Build

    Stretching the wheelbase is definitely worth the effort. The XJ's 101.4" is perfect on 35" tyres so if you are aiming for 100"-104" on 35s or 37s I am sure you will be happy with the improvement of the stretch on your TJ. A tip from my hard earned experience: Long arm suspensions unload really easy. It doesn't matter if they are 3 or 4 link. Nose stands, pointing at the sky and freaky side slope angles will develop your butt muscles. After 2-years of tyring to get used to it I found the cure. Six point limit straps. A limit strap for each shock, with the length set to just allow contact with the shock's internal bumpstop stopped ripping the shocks from the mounts. But the most important are the centre of axle limit straps, one at the mid point of each axle. Tune the length to the same as what the axle position would be with one wheel fully stuffed and the other at full droop. This will limit both sides unloading simultaneously to full droop without compromising articulation. I think the central limit straps have a more noticeable affect the longer the wheelbase. I did my XJ first and will always add them to a long arm Jeep. We sold the TJ before I equipped it with limit straps and I think that if the straps were not sufficiently effective at stock TJ wheelbase manually controlled suck down winches would have done the trick. I don't have a rear anti-roll bar on my XJ but I wish I did. I was intending to fit electrically disconnecting sway-bars from a Rubicon but Jeep put the price up after realising they missed a zero off the end. If you can lock up at least one anti-roll bar on a side slope when you need to it will help but the Jeep has to be level to do that, easy enough to get out to rock the body over. A Currie Anti-Rock in the rear works wonders and is a good compromise. Again. I wish I had the foresight to do this at the beginning. One last tip: Keep the Centre of Gravity as low as you can get it. Shed the hard top, no roof racks or roof tents, or tyre carriers with high mounted jacks or fuel cans. Keep the CofG low and it will handle like a sportscar.
  2. V

    Project XJ

    Have you got the drop dimensions and details of the supplier? They are very rare without the lean.
  3. V

    Project XJ

    The lower position on the track bar bracket would need a matching deeper pitman arm. The 6" lift height only comes into question if the TRE on the pitman arm starts binding. it could go to 8" lift with high steer knuckles. Very deep pitman arms made for LHD have the TRE joint face cranked over to favour the TRE. They don't work on RHD as they are cranked over the wrong way which binds the joint at not much more than static ride height.
  4. V

    same jeep, new color

    I like the colour change and the black grille. I've got bored with silver too.
  5. Hopefully, someone will realise there is a good deal possible on a spare tyre.
  6. I am amazed that you are willing to send £170 of parts to the dump. Their value to you must be a lot lower than that. Why not reduce the price to £25 before chucking them. What part of the country are you in?
  7. V

    Wrangler YJ Parts Wanted

    What was wrong with your old transfer case any way? Don't throw it away until your Jeep is fully road worthy. There will be parts inside it that can still be reused as spares if the casing has cracked. Depending on the damage they can sometimes be welded or even strengthened. Have you had a good look over the scrapyard YJ for parts? What else did you have off it? I am assuming it is fuel injected, the ECU is worth grabbing as an EU spec one will be rare to find if you later need one. Probably worth checking on eBay for all sorts of parts. If you can't find anyone listing them and that scrap Jeep has them, maybe worth acquiring.
  8. V

    My JKU Build

    It might be more of a change than you think going from a long wheelbase JKU to short wheelbase TJ particularly if it is similarly modified. I hope the sale and the new purchase goes well for you. Are you buying a ready built TJ?
  9. V

    Wrangler YJ Parts Wanted

    This Cherokee has the transfer case you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREAKING-JEEP-CHEROKEE-2-5TD-ALL-PARTS-AVAILABLE/142932655443
  10. V

    Wrangler YJ Parts Wanted

    The transfer case is a NP231. Any NP 231 or NV 231 transfer case fitted to a Jeep will replace it. The only likely hiccup will by on the input gear spline count. Most UK 231's are 23 spline, some early YJs came with 21 spline. A 21 spline gear can be easily swapped in to replace a 23 spline gear. Just take it out of the old case if you need it. 231 transfer cases were fitted to TJ, XJ, ZJ, KJ I haven't bought one in a while, but the last time I paid £90 + delivery. If you are feeling brave and have to have new propshafts anyway, a NP242/NV242 with and aftermarket SYE conversion would give you full time 4wd in addition to everything your old transfer case had before.
  11. V

    Hello from Australia

    It is worth asking your Jeep dealer if European Certificates of Conformity could be issued for your vehicles. They may have been built to EU standards. An EU Certificate of Conformity will make the import process a lot easier.
  12. V

    Hello from Australia

    I am pretty sure you only need a dual calibrated dial. If it says MPH it's good enough.
  13. V

    Hello from Australia

    Headlight E markings
  14. V

    Hello from Australia

    I have used Kingstown Shipping for UK bound imports and they have been very good.
  15. V

    Hello from Australia

    A quick check is to see if the headlamps are 'E' marked. It is usually moulded into the glass (or clear plastic) bit. Our road speed measurement are in MPH so if your's has miles then it will be OK.
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